0 of the best bars and clubs in Tokyo

http://m.guardian.co.uk/travel/2012/feb/01/top-10-clubs-bars-tokyo?cat=travel...

Tokyo is teeming with dimly lit boozers, chilled-out jazz bars and hip basement clubs. James Hadfield picks his favourite watering holes from across the city

• As featured in our Tokyo city guide

James Hadfield
guardian.co.uk, Wed 1 Feb 2012 12.13 GMT
Bar High Five
Hidetsugu Ueno worked as the head bartender at legendary Ginza cocktail spot Star Bar before opening his own place nearby. The interior at High Five is as drab and functional as the drinks are exquisite, emphasising precise technique (and even more precisely carved ice) over flashy mixology. There's no menu, of course – Ueno and staff pride themselves in being able to tell what customers want to drink – but you'd do well to try their famous White Lady (Beefeater gin, Cointreau and lemon juice). Oh, and one of the hot dogs.
• 26 Polestar Building 4F, 7-2-14 Ginza, Chuo-ku, +81 3 3571 5815, www8.ocn.ne.jp/~highfive
Eleven
Ageing party-goers still remember it as Space Lab Yellow, the legendary nightclub that closed in 2008 when its building was earmarked for demolition. When that demolition didn't happen, the two-floor subterranean space was overhauled and reopened under a new name but many of the same staff. Eleven is a regular stopover for big-name house and techno DJs – Jeff Mills, Carl Craig and Seth Troxler all played there last year – but also hosts the odd dubstep night, as well as a weekly reggae party overseen by Japanese ragamuffins Rub-a-Dub Market. And while it's within easy walking distance of Roppongi, the capital's hotbed of sleazy pickup joints, it tends to draw a classier crowd.
• B1F/B2F Thesaurus Nishi-Azabu, 1-10-11 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku, +81 3 5775 6206, go-to-eleven.com
Goodbeer Faucets
The newest addition to Tokyo's blooming craft beer scene is a monster, with more than 40 microbrews on tap, dispensed via a state-of-art draught system that owner Teruya Hori built himself. Expect to find popular imports like BrewDog and Green Flash alongside a well chosen range of Japanese brews, including Hori's own Nide Beer. The prices are pretty reasonable by Tokyo standards, but you'll still be paying upwards of ¥780 (around £7) for a 400ml glass; on the plus side, it's got a location to die for, while the sleek, modern interior – chrome and wood surfaces come with TV screens displaying the day's beer menu – make it somewhere you might actually want to take a date.
• Shibuya Crossroad Building2F, 1-29-1 Shoto, Shibuya-ku, +81 3 3770 5544, goodbeerfaucets.jp. Open daily 5pm-midnight
SuperDeluxe
Established in 2002 as an experimental art and music space, SuperDeluxe has endured far longer than its lofty ideals might have suggested it would. A typical month in this spacious, minimally decorated Roppongi basement might involve butoh dance, abstract electronica, psych rock, art exhibitions and charity fundraisers, but look out for regular events like the monthly Pecha Kucha designer gatherings (which started here) and free Test Tone improv gigs. The kitchen whips up serviceable pizzas and veggie curry, and be sure to sample the Tokyo Ale microbrew served on tap – it's produced just a few miles down the road.
• B1F, 3-1-25 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku, +81 3 5412 0515, super-deluxe.com. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am
Trump Room
First-time visitors can take a while to get their breath back when they arrive at this hipster playpen, housed in a rundown Shibuya building whose interior has been transformed into a mess of glitterballs, mirrors and stuffed animal heads. Amazingly, the punters sometimes look even more outlandish than the decor, sporting fashions so impractical they border on fancy dress – wigs, bunny ears, military regalia and naked torsos are the norm. Music comes secondary to the preening, but you'll occasionally hear something memorable amid the onslaught of electro and house, including the odd DJ set by touring indie bands such as The Go! Team and Metronomy.
• Hoshi Building 4F, 1-12-14 Jinnan, Shibuya-ku, +81 3 3770 2325
Zoetrope
If you're looking for an introduction to Japanese whisky, this intimate, dimly lit boozer is the place to start. Zoetrope has somewhere in the region of 300 bottles behind the bar, ranging from better-known Suntory and Nikka varieties to obscure single-cask offerings that are all but impossible to get hold of anywhere else. Owner Atsushi Horigami's malt obsession is rivalled only by his passion for movies: he screens silent films in the evening, and the bar's eye-shaped logo – not to mention the surrealist paintings hanging on the wall – were created by the late Takeo Kimura, art director of choice for cult director Seijun Suzuki.
• Gaia Building #4 3F, 7-10-14 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, +81 3 3363 0162, homepage2.nifty.com/zoetrope. Open Mon-Sat 7pm-4am
Dommune
Tokyo's answer to the Boiler Room is housed in a dinky basement with space for 50 people, and a Funktion One sound system that's equipped for somewhere far larger. Dommune is open for business most weekday evenings, and its events follow a similar format, starting with an interview or Q&A session before letting the DJs take over – all of it streamed online. Everyone from SBTRKT to Derrick May has played there recently, although you'll need to keep an eye on the Twitter account (@DOMMUNE) for details of who's coming, as spaces tend to get snapped up quickly.
• Sunrise Building B1F, 4-6-5 Higashi, Shibuya-ku, +81 3 6427 4533, dommune.com. Open Sun-Thurs 7pm-midnight
Brooklyn Parlor
Equal parts café, bar and bookshop, this basement retreat is run by the company behind the Tokyo incarnations of Manhattan's Blue Note and Cotton Club – and it shows. As with its sister venues, Brooklyn Parlor is cultural karaoke at its finest: granted, its idealised vision of a typical New York hangout – all brick walls, open-plan seating and shelves crammed with art and design books – may seem contrived, but once you've sunk into one of the expansive sofas and ordered a round of draught Brooklyn Lager, you probably won't be too fussed either way.
• 3-1-26 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, +81 3 6457 7763, brooklynparlor.co.jp. Open 11.30am-11.30pm
Unit
With its killer sound system and eclectic booking policy, this multi-story basement club must be one of the most consistently entertaining nightspots in Tokyo. The main room has space for about 600 people, with a second dancefloor downstairs that feels more like an oversized cupboard, and an all-night cafe that sometimes gets used during bigger events. You'll find a more discerning brand of clubber here than you would at nearby rivals like Womb, and Unit doubles up as a live venue for touring indie bands and local acts.
• Za House Building B1F, 1-34-17 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-ku, +81 3 5459 8630, unit-tokyo.com
Stand S
A cross between a Scandinavian sauna and a neighbourhood bar, Stand S is all blonde wood surfaces and irritatingly good-looking clientele. Its location on the outer rim of Shibuya's entertainment district means that it doesn't get as rammed as some places closer to the station might, while the vibe is downtoearth and the drinks relatively inexpensive. Try one of their trademark Mojito beers (which are a lot better than they sound), washed down with a steady soundtrack of Latin jazz, soul and funk.

• 37-16 Udagawacho, Shibuya-ku, +81 3 5452 0277, stand-s.blogspot.com. Open 6pm-midnight

For more information go to the Japan National Tourism Organisation's website: jnto.go.jp/eng
• James Hadfield writes for Time Out Tokyo

Filed under  //  bar   japan   tokyo  
Posted by Bryan Hays 

Unwrap Tokyo for the Holidays!

©Patrizia Tilly - Fotolia.com

Like all big cities, Tokyo is bursting with hidden treasures. You could spend a lifetime here and never uncover all of them. That’s why we have asked some of our contributors and friends to share some of their little-known tidbits with you. Think of it as a Christmas gift—and don’t worry about getting us socks in return.

 


Organic cosmetics

Aoyama-based Antianti is Japan’s first cosmetics maker to be recognized organic by the US Dept. of Agriculture. www.antianti.com/en/index.html

Posh incense

at minimalist store Lisn www2.lisn.co.jp

Masami Yamane, musicJAPANplus www.musicjapanplus.jp


Hidden wonder guide

Made by craft wonder woman Ebony Bizys, Hello Sandwich is a cheat sheet to Tokyo’s wondrous nooks, divided into suburbs. http://meturl.com/sandwich

Gemma Rassmussen


Organic Living

could be your new regime for the New Year. Try Sai Market in Itabashi. Organic shampoo, etc., pesticide-free veggies, a vegan café and more. http://saimarket.com

Alena Eckelmann


Karaage

The best fried chicken in Takadanobaba is at Spicy Flyers, where you can get karaage, snow cones and Corona all under one roof. Triple win. www.spicyflyers.com

Jesse Koester, Ice Block Films, www.iceblockfilms.com


Sweet slice

Rustic and relaxing café Haru and Haru specializes in—mon dieu!—French toast. http://haruandharu.com

Caroline Josephine www.carolinejosephine.com


Punk discs

Known across Japan as a central hub of the domestic punk scene, Mortar Records is located five minutes from Kumagaya station. Great selection, and super-knowledgeable and friendly staff. http://mortar.cart.fc2.com

Dan Orlowitz, music photographer www.thirdlensopen.com/TLO


Yama-NOT-e

Though Tokyo has one of the most comprehensive public transportation systems in the world, my secret is just to walk instead of ride within the Yamanote line. I find it shows you a different rhythm to this place. The stations are like wave crests, and you can feel the surges and rolls in between.

Kyle Hedlund


Bagels

Best hoops o’ bread in town are at Kepo Bagels. The bagelmeister general studied the craft in key NYC bagel kitchens, including the legendary Essa Bagel. Closed for maternity, reopens Jan 5. www.kepobagels.com

John Daschbach


Time travel

is what it feels like to go to Tatemono-en in Musashi-Koganei. Part of the Edo-Tokyo Museum, this open-air architecture museum is apparently a favorite with Hayao Miyazaki. http://tatemonoen.jp/english/index.html

Tatsuyuki Mori


Disaster maniac

Try a force 7 earthquake on for size in a fake kitchen, a smoke room where you have to find the exit, and see a movie about Tokyo in the event of apocalypse, at Disaster Prevention Museum in Ikebukuro. www.tfd.metro.tokyo.jp/hp-ikbskan

Couple capsules

In Kiba there is a rarity—Tokyo Kiba Hotel, which offers capsules for two for about ¥6,000/night. www.tokyokibahotel.co.jp

Guilhem Malfre


Cutlet above

Head out Shimokitazawa south exit and walk down Minami Shotengai for one minute. A tiny restaurant on your left, staffed by an old man who’s been there for eons, will serve you the best tonkatsu in Tokyo.

Zare Ferragi


Catch your own dinner

in a tank with a fishing rod, at Zaou in Shinjuku http://zauo.com

Amanda Taylor http://whoa-im-in-japan.com


Classic café

Experience Lion, a dark converted theater with classical music booming from an excellent sound system. Free entry with a drink—but no talking allowed. On Love Hotel Street in Dogenzaka. http://lion.main.jp

Cherry Cheung


Marmite

The tar-like love-hate substance has been located at Kitchen Garden in Sangenjaya. http://meturl.com/marmite

Rent-a-cat

for free, with ArkBark. It’s actually called fostering and you can help out some abandoned pets via their website. www.arkbark.net

Louise Rouse


Healthy gambling

At the shotengai by Musashi-Koyayama station is four-floor pachinko emporium Angel, whose first floor is smoke-free—a rarity in ball-flicking venues. Check out the view from the bike park on the roof. http://meturl.com/angelpachinko

Silver Balls


Swing that, cat

Opposite a soapland in Kichijoji is hammock showroom and café-bar-restaurant Mahika Mano. Relax amid a jungle of swinging ropes in a one-person hammock with a massive cappuccino, cocktail, or dish, and check out their calendar for gigs, parties and DJ nights. http://mahikamano.com

Jewish penicillin

Try the tori-yuzu ramen at Manrikiya on TV Asahi Dori in Roppongi, four minutes after the Grand Hyatt on the left. Light and healthy tasting, the broth is reminiscent of my mother’s chicken soup.

David Labi


Cover up

your (reasonably-sized) tattoos for onsen purposes with flexible adhesive sports tape. You can find rolls of in any drug store, in beige or white and widths up to 75mm.

Wigs

can transform a bad hair day into a confidence-filled adventure, spark up a party outfit, or provide camouflage in a city full of dark heads. My favorites come from Cyperous in Kanda. So affordable you can have a wig wardrobe in a range of styles and colors. They can be washed and styled and are as comfortable as your favorite hat. http://cyperous.com/english

Kristen McQuillin www.mediatinker.com


Pavlovian treats

One minute from Kita-Kamakura station, within the Engaku-ji complex, is the Ryu-in-an temple. Any visitor who climbs the hill and rings the bell at the base of the temple’s teahouse will receive free green tea and snacks.

Spotlit liquor

One minute from Komagome station on the Yamanote is the amazing bar Slow Hand. Small and quaint, the real attraction is the illumination, done by converting used liquor bottles into spotlights. http://meturl.com/slowhand

Benjamin Boas www.mutantfrog.com


Go east

If you wanted to discover hidden vistas of eastern Tokyo, photographer Kyoichi Tsuzuki has already done it for you, and will be displaying his work at in Nadiff, Ebisu (listing)

Margarita


Courtesy of Wonder Japan


Pack your trunk

and head to Kagurazaka for the elephant slides in this secret playground http://meturl.com/elepark

Enter the warrior

Enter the body of Tokyo-wan Kannon in Chiba for an Inner Space moment. www.t-kannon.jp/about/index.html

Isamu Sekiguchi, Wonder Japan, www.sansaibooks.co.jp/wanderjapan.html


Wear and walk

Men and women can learn the ancient art of wearing kimono (kitsuke)—plus body care, detox and spa treatments—at Inspire Space Hiroo. All in English, reasonably priced, in a small house close to Hiroo station.
www.ishiroo.com

Fair game

Get region-specific info on your fave platform or game from Gaijin Gamers, a community for foreign gamers in Japan. Download lists of Japanese releases to check language support and negotiate any game superstore. www.gaijingamers.com

Jeff W. Richards


Spanish master

Step into a Gaudí masterpiece at Spain Tei in Kawagoe, Saitama, whose architecture and design evokes the Iberian artist’s work. Enjoy tapas and a wine cellar to enter and choose your bottle. http://spain-ichiba.p-kit.com

Mike DeJong


Tunnel vision

A strange, interesting day out can be had at Yoshimi Hyakuana in Saitama. Meaning “hundred holes,” this warren-like network of tunnels in the hillside was a burial site 1,300 years ago, and an underground munitions factory during WWII. www.town.yoshimi.saitama.jp/guide_hyakuana.html

Karl Doyle, photographer www.karldoyle.com


Ice Latte Revolver

is the thing to order in the chill atmosphere of Streamer Coffee. Between Shibuya and Harajuku, the free Wi-Fi café is owned and run by a World Champion latte artist. www.streamercoffee.com

Lisa Wallin http://ichigoichielove.blogspot.com


Wafu haven

Peaceful Toritsu Daigaku restaurant Higashiyama offers traditional wafu sweets with unique twists—excellent with a killer brew of matcha. Feel your soul sighing the city stress away.

Monday Michiru, musician www.mondaymichiru.com

 

Filed under  //  christmas   tokyo  
Posted by Bryan Hays 

Ex-Tokyo cop speaks out on a life fighting gangs — and what you can do

Staff writer

Kiyoshi Nakabayashi well remembers how, when he was a high school student in the late 1950s and early '60s, newspapers were full of stories of violent gang wars being fought out openly on the streets of Tokyo.

News photo
Hands-on approach: Retired senior policeman Kiyoshi Nakabayashi discusses his career and Tokyo Metropolitan Government's new antigang ordinances at the office of the National Center for the Elimination of Boryokudan, where he is now an adviser. YOSHIAKI MIURA PHOTO

Most Japanese reacted to those brazen displays of violence with mute fear or, perversely, thrilled admiration. Nakabayashi's reaction was different. "Like a doctor treats a sickness," he says, he wanted to cure society of its ills.

So, immediately after he graduated from high school in his native Nagano Prefecture, he went to Tokyo and signed up with the Metropolitan Police Department.

It was in 1963, a year after Nakabayashi joined the police force, that the gangs — known in popular culture as the yakuza, but to officialdom as bōryokudan(violent groups) — reached a peak in their combined membership. It's estimated they then numbered more than 184,000.

Since then, the officially estimated number of gang members nationwide has been in a more or less steady decline. In 2009, the last year for which figures are available, the total gang membership hit 80,900 — but that decrease has done little to slow the regular drumbeat of murders, robberies, extortion, blackmail, fraud and other crimes that at regular intervals explode into very public scandals and remind Japan's regular citizens of organized crime's continuing role in society.

Recently, however, efforts to curb gang activity have also made the headlines. One month ago, Tokyo and Okinawa became the last of Japan's 47 prefectures to enact ordinances prohibiting, among other things, the payment by companies or businesses of any monies or other remuneration to the gangs. It's always been illegal to extort. Now it's illegal to pay an extortionist, too.

One person who welcomes the new regulations is Nakabayashi, who never forgot that it was a desire to deal with the gangs that set the trajectory for his near half-century career in law enforcement.

Patrol officer, detective, sergeant: The physically imposing yet flawlessly professional Nakabayashi flew up the police ranks. By the age of 26 he had been transferred to the department responsible for dealing with organized crime. He retired from the force in 2003, having risen to be head of that department's division dealing with Japanese organized crime.

Nakabayashi agreed to talk to The Japan Times about his career because he believes passionately that the only true way to solve the problem of the gangs is to change the consciousness of the public.

Japanese people, he says, have to shake off a mindset that tends toward resignation in the face of difficulties and a fear of being shamed, especially in public. This mindset, he believes, is the true lifeline of the gangs. But he thinks the new ordinances are a step in the right direction.

After retiring, Nakabayashi worked for several years at the government-mandated National Center for the Elimination of Bōryokudan ("Bōtsui Center"), which maintains a national network of facilities — at arm's length from the police force — aimed at encouraging people who have fallen victim to the gangs, or worry that they might, to seek help.

News photo
Strong arm of the law: Kiyoshi Nakabayashi's physical stature, which he honed through years of judo training in his teens and 20s (above), was one of the reasons he was transferred to the organized-crime department of the Tokyo police force. Below: He is seen standing outside the force's former headquarters in the central Kasumigasaki district around 1973. PHOTOS COURTESY OF KIYOSHI NAKABAYASHI
News photo

Now 67, Nakabayashi currently serves as an adviser to the Bōtsui Center. It was in their office in Tokyo's Bunkyo Ward that he sat down last week to speak with The Japan Times.

Why did you want to join the police?

I was in high school during the postwar period of rapid economic development, around 1960. I thought a lot about what I should do, whether I should go to university or not.

The newspapers were full of stories of gang wars — shootouts in broad daylight and so on. We were told it was the period of "postwar peace," but domestically, Japan was at war, and that left a deep impression on me. I decided I wanted to do something to fix the illness that was afflicting society — like a doctor. I became interested in the police force and their gritty detectives who were standing up to the gangs.

At the same time, the student movements were beginning, so I didn't think I could learn anything at university. The police force, which in Tokyo was working to ensure the safety of that massive metropolis, was the "university" for me.

You graduated from high school in Kiso, Nagano Prefecture and then you came to Tokyo to join the force.

That's right. I went through the initial training and started working here.

Was the job what you expected it to be? You joined in 1962, two years before the Tokyo Olympics.

Yes, it was an extremely tense period. Establishing order in Tokyo was paramount. And of course, a key part of that was dealing with the gangs. They had taken advantage of the confused postwar situation and in 1963, a year before the Olympic Games, they hit the peak of their membership — about 184,200.

And yet there were problems in the police force, too. In 1963, there was the infamous "Yoshinobu Incident," in which a 4-year-old boy was abducted. The police messed up the early phases of the investigation and ended up going to pay the ransom — but then letting the criminal escape. They caught him two years later and discovered that the boy had actually been killed soon after being abducted. This was a huge scandal. Calls were made for the whole force to be overhauled and bolstered.

I was a new patrolman at the time, but as a result of that upheaval I was sent to detective school when I was just 22.

What did you learn there?

That the Yoshinobu Incident failures should never be repeated. They lectured us on carrying out investigations as part of a team; how to think as a team. They talked about developing an instinct for detective work; how to project authority; how to place yourself in a position of superiority over someone — and how dedication, sincerity and strength of will are essential. Those are the qualities you need when you confront a suspect or a bad person, and they are also essential in gaining the trust of a victim or an informant. If you can achieve that state of mind, then the details fall into place.

What was your first posting after you became a detective?

I went to a suburb out near Kichijoji, which at the time was like many developing areas in that it combined the elements of a dormitory town with an entertainment district near the train station.

We had to do everything, but the most common trouble was street violence — the bōryokudan were everywhere. Of course, there were also robberies, fraud, youth crimes and so on. But I came to realize that the people pulling the strings were the bōryokudan. They bought the stolen goods and they organized the youths into gangs.

You saw how their system worked?

That's right. And the next step in a police career is to become a sergeant. There was an exam, and I passed when I was 24. I was posted to a different station, and when I arrived there the chief of the detective section was waiting. "Oh, this guy's big, and he looks earnest and capable. He can do bōryokudan!" he said.

News photo
Sharing the load: "A healthy society is a safe society," Kiyoshi Nakabayashi says, explaining that the cooperation of all citizens is necessary to eliminate the yakuza. YOSHIAKI MIURA PHOTO

And that was fine by me except that in this particular suburb, the bōryokudan were very powerful — they would march right into the police station and shout at the chief. I won't name the station now, but it was really rough.

We soon realized that the best weapon we had against the bōryokudan was to prosecute them for gambling (which is illegal in Japan except under highly restricted conditions).

Gravel-making was an important industry in that area. It was necessary for making concrete, and with the building boom the stuff was like diamonds. People were needed to make the gravel, as well as to be drivers, middlemen and dealers. And then there were executives from local companies and shop-owners, and every night they'd gamble at illegal dens. So we went after them.

Exactly how did you do that?

At the time, the usual approach was to try to catch people in the act of gambling, but we focused on past offences. The idea was to build up evidence, then obtain a warrant and make the arrests.

We'd identify the den operators — the bosses — and the fixers who set up the venues. We'd investigate the gambling clientele. And, to avoid prosecuting the wrong people, we'd check up on alibis, investigate movements of funds in bank accounts, identify the hotels and houses where gambling took place — all the details. The better the initial investigations, the easier it was to join the dots and make the arrests.

But, actually, in the middle of doing this kind of work I started pushing myself too hard and eventually got very sick, with a really high fever. My wife was so shocked that she insisted we went to a large hospital. They had an internal medicine specialist and he decided I should be hospitalized. It was a sudden inflammation of the kidneys, and if it had become chronic, I could have died. I was stunned, because I thought I was very healthy, doing judo and all.

They didn't have any medicine for it back then, so I just had to stop eating any kind of salt and rest. After a really tough month, my condition improved and I was moved into a large ward.

News photo
Action men: Police officers take part in a training exercise held to coincide with the Oct. 1, 2011, adoption by Tokyo Metropolitan Government of new antigang ordinances. KYODO PHOTO

I ended up becoming like the ringleader of the eight patients there, and I instituted a rule that we all laugh at least twice a day. Three months later the doctor congratulated me. Our ward had the highest recovery rate, he said, because I had made everyone laugh!

I've made a slight digression there, but I did that for a reason. I came to realize that an illness is not something a doctor fixes. First and foremost, patients themselves have to fix it. The key to a patient's success in doing this is the strength of their relationships — family, wife, children, parents, boss at work, seniors, colleagues. If you think a doctor and medicine alone will cure an illness, then you are making a big mistake.

So the most important "medicine" is the strength of your relationships and how you can draw on those, your mental state — the same qualities that make a good detective. For example, I think that experience taught me how to communicate with people in a way that encourages them to open up, and that was important.

How old were you when you got sick?

It was 1971. I was 26, and it was a year after I got married.

Did you return to the same police station after you left hospital?

Before getting sick, I had been going after the gamblers and so I had started working with key members of the police force's organized-crime department. After getting out of hospital, that was where I went back to.

Please describe the historical background of the bōryokudan.

The term "bōryokudan" itself didn't start being used until around 1960, but their DNA can be traced back to the end of the Edo Period (1603-1867) — the time of gambling and "heroes of the common people," like the famous (rice dealer turned gambling magnate) Shimizu Jirocho (1820-93).

Back then, power meant financial strength; the ability to command loyalty and settle disputes.

Gambling was permitted in shrine and temple grounds as long as a fee on winnings was paid to those shrines and temples. As the success of the silk industry introduced a cash economy into rural areas, it became more popular. Gambling operators established their own exclusive zones and hired thugs to keep rivals out. The gambling operators got rich and could start offering loans and, often, they presented themselves as saviors of the financially disadvantaged.

At the same time, a tradition was established at the start of the Edo Period by the first Tokugawa Shogun, Ieyasu, because he believed the best way to keep a lid on dissent was to use local strongmen. And so power gradually became concentrated in the hands of gambling operators. They even took on the role of law enforcement.

The other factor in the development of the gangs was the period of confusion after World War II, with the emergence of black markets and so on. That was when today's prominent groups all achieved their current states. Of course, the police force was under the control of the GHQ (the headquarters of the Allied Occupation from 1945 until it ended in 1952), so it was toothless.

And then the bōryokudan went and started having gang wars among themselves. And the more they did that, then the more their image of power and menace grew and, often, young people were attracted to that.

Describe the work involved in pursuing bōryokudan. What did you do in the organized-crime department?

It's 80 percent investigation, 20 percent arrests and prosecutions. An important thing is not to get too focused on just one aspect. You should have a broader approach and pursue about two or three angles at a time. And you need to work as a team, you need to build up a picture from what all the team members can see.

When an incident occurs and the whole team kicks into action, then you compress about a year's worth of a suspect group's activity into an hour. Nowadays there are computers, so you can input all the information you have — connections, the money trail, movements, cars, recordings of phone calls — into a database and then you can see the whole pattern of an individual's actions. That becomes the foundation, and then you can say: "OK, this is what we know now. This is what we need to find out."

When was the time you felt most afraid for your personal safety?

I never did. Even when I went into a situation where there were guns, where the boss might be crazed and on drugs, there was no fear. In those situations, you focus your whole mind on two things: ma'ai (spacing, or distance) and timing.

News photo
Not welcome: A sign on the perimeter of the Tokyo Sky Tree site advertises the commitment of all the construction companies involved to ensuring no yakuza involvement in the project. YOSHIAKI MIURA PHOTO

Even after I started overseeing those kinds of operations, I remember that it was always the same. Once you've gained confidence with ma'ai and timing then the fear goes away.

Ma'ai is the distance, both physical and mental, between yourself and the other party. And then there is the timing — to make sure you don't unintentionally burst in on them. For the most part, bōryokudan members won't set out to do anything to a police officer. The cases where officers have been killed are generally when the bōryokudan members didn't intend it, but circumstances prompted desperate measures.

The situation where bōryokudan really are scary, however, is when they become what in medical terms you might call a cancer. When you can't see what they are doing, because they are using third parties and youths for their own gain; when they start to create systems that feed them funds indirectly, then that is dangerous.

What was the most satisfying moment in your career?

There was one incident, a really big incident that turned into a big scandal. I won't mention the names of the companies now, but it involved bid-rigging in the construction industry.

Bōryokudan and sōkaiya (people or groups paid to disrupt shareholder meetings, annual general meetings and suchlike) found out about the bid-rigging and the head of one company in particular, who was scared of them making that information public, paid them off. Of course, it just got bigger from there.

Next they came around threatening to reveal to shareholders that he had somehow generated funds to pay them off.

The deeper he was drawn in, the more difficult it became for him to talk. This is an example of how the Japanese culture of shame can really have a negative effect. Anyway, our aim was to pursue an extortion case against the bōryokudan and sōkaiya.

The problem was that in order to make a blackmail case in Japan, you need the victim to file a complaint. That meant that the bid-rigging and the payments would come to light. Public trust in the company will be jeopardized.

And so we had to convince the company heads to talk. Over and over again, we had to assure them that we would guarantee their safety, protect the witnesses, the individuals. Eventually, the top of one company made a brave decision — he filed the complaint — and thanks to that, we were able to take down the entire network.

The company head acknowledged that he had panicked when he initially gave in to the bōryokudan. So, the most satisfying moment for me was when he said to me: "We were totally under their spell. And because you gave us the courage to shake off that spell, our company exists to this day."

In that case, I got him to talk, but the problem remains: Without a complaint, the police can't make a case. But these new ordinances go a ways to rectifying that situation (because paying an extortionist is itself now punishable).

Tell me about the new antigang ordinances.

Well, as of now every prefecture has such ordinances. They essentially impose an obligation to make an effort. We detectives used to say, "Please do this. Please tell us if this or that happens. You're not allowed to do this."

Now the regulations are saying that this is what we are all going to do. And if you don't fulfill your obligation, and you permit some sort of benefit to accrue to a bōryokudan — if you sell them office space or something — then you are going to pay a penalty. You won't get fined immediately, but you will be warned, and if you don't heed the warning, then we will make it known publicly what you are doing.

Your company will then lose the trust of the public, banks won't lend you money, your company will go bankrupt. You will be punished.

Filed under  //  cop   gang   kiyoshi   nakabayashi   tokyo  
Posted by Bryan Hays 

Will Japan build a backup Tokyo?

Onlookers get a panoramic view of the city of Tokyo from the first observatory deck during a media preview of the Tokyo Sky Tree tower this week. Some Japanese lawmakers have proposed constructing a "backup city" that could take on the capital's functions in the event of a catastrophe.

It sounds like a story ripped from the parody-filled pages of The Onion, but some Japanese lawmakers really do want to build a "backup city" that would take over the functions of Tokyo, including tourism, in the event of a catastrophe.

The idea was floated last month at a Tokyo luncheon, with a follow-up in The Telegraph last week. "The idea of being able to have a backup, a spare battery for the functions of the nation ... isn't this really a good idea?" Hajime Ishii, a parliamentarian representing the ruling Democratic Party of Japan, was quoted as saying.

Support for creating an urban Plan B has grown in the wake of the earthquake and tsunami that devastated Japan in March and led to the Fukushima nuclear crisis. "Preparations are already under way at various levels at various levels to find ways of mitigating possible far-reaching consequences of a much-expected earthquake striking Tokyo," the Foreign Correspondents Club of Japan said.

The lawmakers' plan calls for building an urban center known as IRTBBC (Integrated Resort, Tourism, Business and Backup City) or NEMIC (National Emergency Management International City) on the 1,236-acre site currently occupied by Osaka International Airport at Itami. Today, Itami is used only as a secondary hub for domestic flights, operating in the shadow of the newer Kansai airport.

The new city would take on all the functions of the capital city in the event of an emergency. It would boast office complexes, resort facilities, parks and even casinos. The city's centerpiece would be a tower that would rank among the tallest in the world, coming in at just over 650 meters (2,133 feet). It'd be built to house 50,000 residents and accommodate a workday population of around 200,000 people from the Osaka region, The Telegraph reported.

If the plan goes forward, it would rank among history's most ambitious backup plans. The backers haven't calculated the cost of building the city. For now, Ishii and his fellow lawmakers — including the Democratic Party's Banri Kaieda, Shizuka Kamei of the People's New Party and Ichiro Aisawa of the Liberal Democrats — are merely seeking 14 million yen ($180,000) for a feasibility study.

So far, the reaction has been mixed: Osaka's governor, Toru Hashimoto, has been quoted as saying that his region is willing to accept the capital backup role, while Tokyo Governor Shintaro Ishihara has voiced opposition. And he may not be the only one: It just seems to me that most emergency-management officials, if not most politicians, would prefer to fortify what they have rather than building a whole new complex someplace else.


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Filed under  //  earthquake   japan   new   science   tokyo   tsunami  
Posted by Bryan Hays 

Radiation Hotspots Discovered in Tokyo By Citizens’ Group

 Tokyo - Takeo Hayashida signed on with a citizens’ group to test for radiation near his son’s baseball field in Tokyo after government officials told him they had no plans to check for fallout from the devastated Fukushima Daiichi nuclear plant. Like Japan’s s central government, local officials said there was nothing to fear in the capital, 160 miles from the disaster zone.

Japan Moves Forward In Aftermath Of Earthquake Despite Nuclear Fears
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Japanese policemen wearing a protective suits undergo testing for possible nuclear radiation at a screening center.

Then came the test result: the level of radioactive cesium in a patch of dirt just yards from where his 11-year-old son, Koshiro, played baseball was equal to those in some contaminated areas around Chernobyl.

 The patch of ground was one of more than 20 spots in and around the nation’s capital that the citizens’ group, and the respected nuclear research center they worked with, found were contaminated with potentially harmful levels of radioactive cesium.

 It has been clear since the early days of the nuclear accident, the world’s second worst after Chernobyl, that that the vagaries of wind and rain had scattered worrisome amounts of radioactive materials in unexpected patterns far outside the evacuation zone 12 miles around the stricken plant. But reports that substantial amounts of cesium had accumulated as far away as Tokyo have raised new concerns about how far the contamination had spread, possibly settling in areas where the government has not even considered looking.

 The government’s failure to act quickly, a growing chorus of scientists say, may be exposing many more people than originally believed to potentially harmful radiation. It is also part of a pattern: Japan’s leaders have continually insisted that the fallout from Fukushima will not spread far, or pose a health threat to residents, or contaminate the food chain. And officials have repeatedly been proved wrong by independent experts and citizens’ groups that conduct testing on their own.

 “Radioactive substances are entering people’s bodies from the air, from the food. It’s everywhere,” said Kiyoshi Toda, a radiation expert at Nagasaki University’s faculty of environmental studies and a medical doctor. “But the government doesn’t even try to inform the public how much radiation they’re exposed to.”

 The reports of hot spots do not indicate how widespread contamination is in the capital; more sampling would be needed to determine that. But they raise the prospect that people living near concentrated amounts of cesium are being exposed to levels of radiation above accepted international standards meant to protect people from cancer and other illnesses.

 Japanese nuclear experts and activists have begun agitating for more comprehensive testing in Tokyo and elsewhere, and a cleanup if necessary. Robert Alvarez, a nuclear expert and a former special assistant to the United States secretary of energy, echoed those calls, saying the citizens’ groups’ measurements “raise major and unprecedented concerns about the aftermath of the Fukushima nuclear disaster.”

The government has not ignored citizens’ pleas entirely; it recently completed aerial testing in eastern Japan, including Tokyo. But several experts and activists say the tests are unlikely to be sensitive enough to be useful in finding micro hot spots such as those found by the citizens’ group.

 

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Kaoru Noguchi, head of Tokyo’s health and safety section, however, argues that the testing already done is sufficient. Because Tokyo is so developed, she says, radioactive material was much more likely to have fallen on concrete, then washed away. She also said exposure was likely to be limited.

“Nobody stands in one spot all day,” she said. “And nobody eats dirt.”

Tokyo residents knew soon after the March 11 accident, when a tsunami knocked out the crucial cooling systems at the Fukushima plant, that they were being exposed to radioactive materials. Researchers detected a spike in radiation levels on March 15. Then as rain drizzled down on the evening of March 21, radioactive material again fell on the city.

In the following week, however, radioactivity in the air and water dropped rapidly. Most in the city put aside their jitters, some openly scornful of those — mostly foreigners — who had fled Tokyo in the early days of the disaster.

But not everyone was convinced. Some Tokyo residents bought dosimeters. The Tokyo citizens’ group, the Radiation Defense Project, which grew out of a Facebook discussion page, decided to be more proactive. In consultation with the Yokohama-based Isotope Research Institute, members collected soil samples from near their own homes and submitted them for testing.

Some of the results were shocking: the sample that Mr. Hayashida collected under shrubs near his neighborhood baseball field in the Edogawa ward measured nearly 138,000 becquerels per square meter of radioactive cesium 137, which can damage cells and lead to an increased risk of cancer.

Of the 132 areas tested, 22 were above 37,000 becquerels per square meter, the level at which zones were considered contaminated at Chernobyl.

Edwin Lyman, a physicist at the Union of Concerned Scientists in Washington, said most residents near Chernobyl were undoubtedly much worse off, surrounded by widespread contamination rather than isolated hot spots. But he said the 37,000 figure remained a good reference point for mandatory cleanup because regular exposure to such contamination could result in a dosage of more than one millisievert per year, the maximum recommended for the public by the International Commission on Radiological Protection.

The most contaminated spot in the Radiation Defense survey, near a church, was well above the level of the 1.5 million becquerels per square meter that required mandatory resettlement at Chernobyl. The level is so much higher than other results in the study that it raises the possibility of testing error, but micro hot spots are not unheard of after nuclear disasters.

Japan’s relatively tame mainstream media, which is more likely to report on government pronouncements than grass-roots movements, mainly ignored the citizens’ group’s findings.

“Everybody just wants to believe that this is Fukushima’s problem,” said Kota Kinoshita, one of the group’s leaders and a former television journalist. “But if the government is not serious about finding out, how can we trust them?”

Hideo Yamazaki, an expert in environmental analysis at Kinki University in western Japan, did his own survey of the city and said he, too, discovered high levels in the area where the baseball field is located.

 


Current DateTime: 07:09:14 17 Oct 2011
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“These results are highly localized, so there is no cause for panic,” he said. “Still, there are steps the government could be taking, like decontaminating the highest spots.”

Since then, there have been other suggestions that hot spots were more widespread than originally imagined.

Last month, a local government in a Tokyo ward found a pile of composted leaves at a school that measured 849 becquerels per kilogram of cesium 137, over two times Japan’s legally permissible level for compost.

And on Wednesday, civilians who tested the roof of an apartment building in the nearby city of Yokohama — farther from Fukushima than Tokyo — found high quantities of radioactive strontium. (There was also one false alarm this week when sky-high readings were reported in the Setagaya ward in Tokyo; the government later said they were probably caused by bottles of radium, once widely used to make paint.)

The government’s own aerial testing showed that although almost all of Tokyo had relatively little contamination, two areas showed elevated readings. One was in a mountainous area at the western edge of the Tokyo metropolitan region, and the other was over three wards of the city — including the one where the baseball field is situated.

The metropolitan government said it had started preparations to begin monitoring food products from the nearby mountains, but acknowledged that food had been shipped from that area for months.

Mr. Hayashida, who discovered the high level at the baseball field, said that he was not waiting any longer for government assurances. He moved his family to Okayama, about 370 miles to the southwest.

“Perhaps we could have stayed in Tokyo with no problems,” he said. “But I choose a future with no radiation fears.”

Matthew L. Wald contributed reporting from Washington, and Kantaro Suzuki from Tokyo.

This story originally appeared in The New York Times

Filed under  //  radiation   tokyo  
Posted by Bryan Hays 

Blame it on my blood, disgraced Japan politician says

Japan's newly appointed reconstruction minister Ryu Matsumoto speaks at a news conference after resigning his post, in Tokyo 

TOKYO (Reuters) - Forced to quit after barely a week as Japan's reconstruction minister for remarks deemed offensive to victims of the March earthquake and tsunami, Ryu Matsumoto had an unusual explanation for his behavior -- his blood type.

"My blood's type B, which means I can be irritable and impetuous, and my intentions don't always come across," he said Tuesday after his resignation.

"My wife called me earlier to point that out. I think I need to reflect about that."

Matsumoto was tapping into a widespread belief in Japan that blood types correspond to various character traits.

Japan's fascination with blood types began in the early 20th century and is similar to the belief in astrology and horoscopes. Many Japanese believe their blood type can foretell success in romance and the suitability for jobs.

It's not uncommon for the subject to come up in conversation, sometimes as explanation for an action, and a directory of members of parliament lists the blood types of many, along with their home towns and hobbies.

Many Japanese, however, said it was not an acceptable reason for Matsumoto's behavior on a trip to the devastated northern region, during which he told a prefecture governor the government would not help communities that failed to come up with ideas to help themselves.

Speaking before TV cameras, Matsumoto reprimanded the governor for keeping him waiting and then ordered journalists not to report the exchange or else their media outlets would suffer.

People with type B blood are believed to be stubborn, impulsive and cold, although they are also seen as practical, and Matsumoto's explanation was greeted with derision.

"He should apologize to all other Type Bs," said one user of a Web chat forum.

Matsumoto's resignation delivered a fresh blow to unpopular Prime Minister Naoto Kan, who is a blood type O -- believed to be sociable and energetic but flighty, able to easily start projects but then give them up just as fast.

(Reporting by Elaine Lies, editing by Miral Fahmy)

Filed under  //  japan   matsumoto   politician   ryu   tokyo  
Posted by Bryan Hays 

New Tokyo Tower is up!

P543

Filed under  //  japan   new   tokyo   tower  
Posted by Bryan Hays 

Big Boys in Huge Contrarian Bet After Japan Quake

May 31, 2011

Fidelity, BlackRock and Vanguard loaded up on shares of Tokyo Electric Power, operator of Japan's earthquake-stricken nuclear plant, in the quake's aftermath, Nikkei reports.

 

Shares in Tokyo Electric plunged in March as the crisis at its Fukushima Daiichi generator worsened following the March 11 quake and tsunami. Its shares have remained low, and foreign investors have been net sellers for the past month, according to a trader at a foreign brokerage speaking to Nikkei.

 

Fidelity's stake in the company, however, grew by a factor of 13.5 between year-end and the end of March, to 1.83 million shares. BlackRock's U.S. and U.K. arms increased their combined holdings by 19%, to 13.74 million shares, and Vanguard's stake was up 5%, to 8.93 million shares.

 

Tokyo Electric is unlikely to deliver shareholder dividends or other profit returns for the foreseeable future, given that no cap has been placed on its compensation liabilities, Nikkei also reports.

Filed under  //  electric   japan   nuclear   power   tokyo  
Posted by Bryan Hays